Finally, Paint!!!

So, we finally got to start painting today! I bought some paint for the girls' rooms,  and some quart-sized samples for their bathrooms.  Well, the samples went ok, but I didn't like the blue I chose for the girls, too gray, so I decided to try it out in the master. 

The Before

The During
(after Bryan sprayed the trim - which, by the way, the paint sprayer is one of the greatest home-improvement tools EVER.  It would have taken 10 hours to paint all of the trim in this room, with 3 layers of crown moulding, base, window and doors, it took him about 10 minutes.  There really aren't words to fully describe how wonderful that is, really.  really.)

Ok, so I can't really call this "the after," because the ceiling still needs paint, the room needs carpet, and let's be honest, it's not finished until it's furnished, so we'll just call this another progress shot, and I'll add some more as I go

*sigh* I feel so much better! Now let's talk a little bit about painting.  There are several ways to go about this, but I'm gonna tell you how I like to do it, and why, so if you feel like tackling a paint project you will at the very least be informed. 

First, get a good brush.  Most people think they can't paint, but it's because they get the $5 paint brush special, or they use the $2 brush that comes with a paint tray.  Go get a $12-$18 Purdy brush.  For latex paint you can go with synthetic bristles, but for oil paint (only use on trim) get mohair. My brush is about 3 inches wide and is cut on an angle, which makes corners easier.  If you get a good brush and take care of it, it will last for years.  (There are all kinds of tips and tricks on Pinterest for cleaning out brushes, as well as "brush cleaners" available at any paint store.  It's truly amazing what they can do!)

Second, I don't believe in taping.  I think this gives people a false sense of security. Without a doubt, paint ALWAYS seeps through the seal, and you have paint all over your trim, and you won't even know until it's dry and you remove the tape, so then you're stuck with a mess.  I have seen a new tape on the market called "Frog" tape, which is green, and they claim to have fixed the seeping paint situation.  So if you must tape, go with that, but think of the tape only as an insurance policy and still try your hardest NOT to get paint on it.

Third, I like to roll and cut in all at the same time.  Most people like to do one, and then the other, and I used to cut in and then roll.  Now, I roll about a 2-3ft section from floor to ceiling, then cut it in, then roll another section, etc. This prevents any thicker areas where the roller stopped around the edges.  Also, it gives you a glimpse of a finished product sooner, and like the rest of my generation, I'm all about instant gratification. 

Fourth, let's talk a little more about rolling.  I have found it's best to start in the middle of the wall and roll, UP.  Most people seem to instinctively want to roll down, but then you have little tiny splatters all over the trim.  If you roll upwards the little splatters fall back onto the paint roller instead. Also, roll SLOWLY and apply EVEN PRESSURE so you don't get any of those horrible roller lines up and down the wall.  The key to this is to reapply paint OFTEN.  Don't expect to go from floor to ceiling with one roller's worth of paint.  Obviously, reapplying often puts a thicker coat of paint on the wall, and can possibly make a 2nd coat unnecessary.  I like to do the top half (about 2ft by 4 ft) then the bottom half. Then I do the bottom half next to it, and move up again, so I don't have so much up-and-down business goin on.

Fifth, don't judge the paint color until you at least get a whole wall painted, maybe even the whole room. Colors look differently based on their surroundings and lighting.  Obviously, this means the previous wall color will affect your perception.  The lighting is important because it will change as you get more and more of the new color on the wall because the actual light rays will be reflected differently not only by the wavelength of the color, but also by the paint finish (satin vs. flat - psst, go with flat!).  You may get the whole room painted, hate the color and have to paint it again.  But, if you LOVED the color on the chip, then hated it with the first few brush strokes, you may find you love it again when the room is finished.  This is why those little paint samples that cover 2 square feet just aren't really very helpful. Also note that drying makes a huge impact, as well. Check out the pictures below:

These are both the EXACT same color....see how different they look against different backgrounds??  You wouldn't have any idea how this color would look until you painted the entire room.

Here is another example. The new color looks grey right?  Here's an even closer view (sorry, the paint is wet, so it's pretty reflective):

If I had never used this color before, I would have stopped right there.  Now let me show you the exact same color in a finished room (sorry, the paint isn't completely dry, so just ignore any shiny parts).

Looks pretty different now, huh?  This color, by the way, is Restoration Hardware's Sea Green, but I had it mixed by Porter Paint in flat, interior latex (aka, "the cheap stuff").  I also painted the ceiling a color that I made up (because I'm squirrely like that) and named Biscuit (also mixed by Porter).  I LOVE the way it is so neutral you don't really notice it, but it makes the trim look really nice (more so in person than in the picture).  I used a darker shade of this color in this bedroom's closet, and I plan to use an even darker shade in the foyer and hallways...pics of that maybe next month???