(there's some of that lovely wallpaper I mentioned! By the way, I should add that so far in the demolition we have discovered pink paint or wall paper in the master bed and bath, kitchen, all 3 of the other bedrooms, the half bath (above), on the kitchen countertops, and let's not forget the entire exterior of the house. wow)
First, use a pry bar to remove the shoe moulding and base boards. Do this slowly and gently if you need to reuse them - they will no longer fit in their original places because you will be changing the dimensions of the walls, but if you have extra trim from other areas of the house, or if you're fortunate enough you can still purchase matching pieces - yay! In our last house we replaced all of the trim with newer, larger trim. We want our trim to look original to the style of the house, and consistent throughout. In this house replacing the trim would be beyond rediculous, so we opted to save it, and luckily we had extra from the wall we removed in between the kitchen and dining room. If I were building from scratch I would have chosen something more ornate and larger, but this will work for our purposes. Also, in the end all of the trim, including the bead board, will be painted alike, so the fact that the base boards are an inch shorter that what I would prefer, will hardly be noticeable.
Next, measure your wall, mark your cut by drawing a line the entire width of the beadboard, and cut it with a skilsaw. Then apply "paneling adhesive" in large "s" strokes on the back of the board (paneling adhesive can be found near the caulk at any home improvement store. You apply it with a caulk gun, and let me take this time to encourage you to get a GOOD caulk gun - one that has a clipper and a pin to open your tubes) Finally, use a staple gun (powered by an air compressor....this is NOT the same kind of stapler you use to reupholster a chair or hang exterior Christmas lights. You can rent one from Lowes (we like them better than Home Depot) if you don't have access another way. And here I'd like to offer my apologies because we are switching to pictures from another bathroom - but we were doing the same thing in all of them, so for demonstration purposes it really doesn't matter - and I promise to provide "after" pics for both as soon as they are available.
Also, each sheet of beadboard has a tongue on one side, and a groove on the opposite side. This is FABULOUS for seamlessly finishing a long wall (each sheet is 4' wide x8' high). Not only will your seams be flawless, but all of your cuts will be in the corners, where they will be hidden either by caulk (int corner) or a finishing corner piece (ext corner). I'll say it again - FABULOUS!
The corner pieces you simply cut to the appropriate length and attach with a trim nailer using 1 1/4 inch nails (again, this can be rented along with an air compressor). I can't imagine many of you will have crazy tub/shower inserts with ceilings in them, so hopefully you won't have to make this 45 degree cuts my amazing husband pulled off. Just fyi, he did it using a miter saw and cutting the angle only on half of the "L" shaped corner trim, leaving the other half of the "L"
straight. This allowed for a 90 degree angle on the front of the tub, but a straight seem underneath.
By now you're beginning to experience a little bit of our agony - this crazy project never ends! The good news is, the end is in sight! Just take a little painters putty - our was all dried up, so we used wood putty - and fill in all of the staple/nail holes.
This is tedious, but easy. Just make a little ball of putty.
Rub it in over the hole until it is filled, then smooth over it with your finger.
Ta-dah! All filled! Any evidence of a nail will disappear beneath the paint.
Now I would looooove to tell you that you're finished, but I'm sorry my friends....if it makes you feel any better, we weren't finished either. Next up, chair rail and base board installation Just Gimme A Little Trim
Add a little paint and throw down some tile...it's comin right along!
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